Wołowa Turnia is a perfect goal for early autumn climbing. There are a number of beautiful, not too long routes on its sout face, each one representing different style of climbing. During one of the weekends of September, I managed to climb three of them: Puškaš (VI+) and Štáflovka (V) with Ania, and Eštok-Janiga (VII-) route with Kuba and Łukasz.

Unfortunately, the approach to the south face of Wołowa Turnia is not too short. It takes around two hours from Horský Hotel Popradské Pleso, first along the red trail towards Rysy, then by the Żabie Mięguszowieckie lakes, finally diagonally traversaing the grassy slopes beneth the wall. Puškaš route starts at the lefthand side corner of the triangular face.

The first to pitches are fairly easy and due to lack of any characteristic features, it might be difficult to find the right way. The idea is to reach a big grassy ledge beneath leaning granite flakes. The third pitch climbs along these flakes, up to a small ledge, just below the crux. The most difficult part of the route is the start of the fourth pitch, after which you can enjoy pleasant climbing along a crack of different widths. This is basically the end of the climb. However, to reach the summit of Wołowa Turnia, you need to scramlbe a few rope lengts of easier terrain. The summit offers a magnificent view towards the north side. You can see the magical Morskie Oko lake and a small hut on its shore.
The fastest way to get back to the base of the wall is to descent on foot. First we have to go a couple of meters eastwards, along a grassy ledge beneath the summit block. Just before the ledge ends, we turn north, towards Morskie Oko lake. There is a steep path with cairns visible down the north face.

Using a system of ledges and chimneys, we go down leaning diagonally eastwards, until we level up with Żabia Mięguszowiecka pass, visible on the righthand side. At some point we make an ascending traverse to the grassy ridge which takes us to the pass. This section is pretty airy and can be icy in autumn, even if the south side is still warm. From the pass, an easy gully takes us back to the foot of the wall.
Štáflovka is another nice route that climbs over a couple of overhangs and an enormous slab just before the summit. Even though it looks a little intimidating, the climbing is never too hard. I think that apart from the Stanisławski route, it is one of the best routes for beginners on this face.

Eštok-Janiga is another route, which in turn shouldn’t be underestimated. The two first pitches are very technical and demanding in terms of protection. The crux pitch in the roof (VII-) was equipped with a bolt lately but it’s hard and scary anyway.
After finishing the crux pitch, it is possible to rappel down or continue to the summit.

Other interesting routes on the south face of Wołowa Turania are Świerz route (III), Stanisławski route (V), Puškaš chimney (V), or a little bit harder Hviezdowa Cesta (VI+) and Orolin (VII).
If you are intrested in climbing on Wołowa Turnia with an IFMGA Mountain Guide, please let me know. You can drop me an email or use the contact form on the home page. As an IFMGA guide I can take up to two people for climbing in Tatra Mountains.